Higashine Onsen, located almost in the center of Yamagata Prefecture, is known as the “Countryside Hot Spring” and has a history of more than 100 years. When the hot spring first opened, a small eatery began serving meals to the workers who were developing the facilities. That eatery eventually became Yamashita Shokudo, a long‑established diner famous for its tempura and now run by the fifth‑generation owner. It is a place that has grown alongside the hot spring, continuing to satisfy the appetites of visitors for generations.

Yamashita Shokudo — A Long‑Established Tempura Diner in Higashine Onsen

I first visited Yamashita Shokudo more than 20 years ago. After a company gathering at Higashine Onsen, we walked in wearing yukata for a second round of drinks. Normally, I finish drinking parties with ramen, but for some reason that night I ordered cold tempura soba—and I still vividly remember how incredibly delicious it was. Ever since then, whenever there was a “meeting” (basically a banquet), I almost always ended up at this diner.

Yamashita Shokudo’s Menu — Tempura Is the Highlight

The menu is extensive. Noodles include ramen, soba, and udon; rice dishes center around donburi; and there are plenty of small plates that pair well with drinks. Among all of these, tempura is clearly the star—tendon, tenju, hot and cold tempura soba, and assorted tempura are all available. Payment is accepted in cash or via PayPay, and prices will be raised soon.

Recommended: Tendon

You can practically taste how good it is just by looking at it. The toppings include a huge shrimp tempura towering over the bowl, squid, lotus root, shiitake mushroom, eggplant, shishito pepper, and green beans. The sweet‑savory tempura sauce soaks deeply into both the toppings and the rice, reminding me of the Edo‑style tendon I once had in a shopping street in Waseda. The price is 1,400 yen (tax included). Honestly, “a great deal” is the only phrase that fits.

Cold Tempura Soba

It may be hard to see, but this bowl contains two huge shrimp tempura. There’s also a massive maitake mushroom, shishito pepper, eggplant, green beans, and kamaboko. On top sits a generous amount of my favorite powdered‑wasabi paste, along with sliced green onions and julienned cucumber. You can pour the broth over the noodles or dip them into the small bowl of tsuyu—either way is fine. At 1,600 yen (tax included), this is absolutely wild.

Katsudon

Many office workers were ordering large katsudon, so I followed their lead (the photo shows the regular size). A wooden spoon is included, but the cutlets are so big that using it is difficult—chopsticks are much more practical. The sauce is sweet and savory, and the onions tucked between the cutlets are perfectly tender. A truly delicious katsudon. Price: 1,000 yen (tax included).

Nabeyaki Udon

This winter‑only dish features classic nabeyaki udon with kakiage, a poached egg, shiitake mushroom, and chicken. The addition of shungiku is a bit unusual. All of this for 1,050 yen (tax included). It’s the perfect bowl to warm both body and soul during Yamagata’s cold winter.

Access to Yamashita Shokudo — East Side of Higashine Onsen

When you see the blue roadside sign for “Higashine Onsen” along Route 13, turn east at the intersection with the Toyota and Nissan dealerships. Pass under the Higashine Onsen arch sign, turn left just before the next traffic light, and you’ll find a large parking lot like the one in the photo.

Summary

Originating in the Meiji era and surviving through the Taisho, Showa, Heisei, and now Reiwa periods, this distinguished eatery truly has a unique depth of character. Both the lunchtime and evening menus are full of tempting options, making it a place you’ll want to visit again and again. This time, I even spotted freshly pressed “Asahitaka” sake in the refrigerator! Just imagining having a drink with some soft dried‑squid tempura, then finishing with a bowl of cold tempura soba is pure bliss—it’s enough to make my mouth water just thinking about it.

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